Monday, August 4, 2014

Julien Viard and Morana, Inc.

In the 1922 article below, Morana Inc "have secured the exclusive American agency of C & J Viard and R. Mouquet, glass bottle designers and manufacturers of Montreuil, Seine, France." The most well-known bottle used by Morana was the cherub stoppered bottle designed by Julien Viard and made in Czechoslovakia. This bottle was most likely used by various perfumes, in one photo below, we can see it was used by both Lemoine and Prochaska.



The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, Volume 16, 1922:
"Beginning with this issue, the usual insert of Morana, Inc. which appears between advertising pages 16 and 17, has been increased to six pages, at which size it will continue until the further growth of the business makes necessary the use of larger space. The increase in the size of the insert is due to the addition of an imported bottle department. As was reported in the last issue, Morana, Inc. have secured the exclusive American agency of C. and J. Viard and R. Mouquet, glass bottle designers and manufacturers of Montreuil, Seine, France. This insert is another example of a sagacious advertiser recognizing the value of this kind of display, which gives prominence to his own products, and incidentally livens up the advertising section as a whole, and we are told stimulates the interest of the casual reader in the contents of the entire journal."

The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, 1920:
"One of the most interesting developments in the American perfumery and flavoring extract supply industry took place on October 1 when Compagnie Morana and the Commonwealth Products Corporation were united into a single corporation. Compagnie Morana has increased its capital stock to $1,000,000 common stock $250,000 first preferred $600,000 second preferred $150,000 and changed its corporate name to Morana Incorporated under which name Compagnie Morana and the Commonwealth Products Corporation will henceforth be conducted. 
Morana Incorporated is the outgrowth of a modest business established fourteen years ago by Carl Schaetzer, Warren E Burns, and Williard A Walsh. Their training and temperament well fitted them for harmonious and effective association and the present division of responsibilities indicates the trend of their natural aptitudes viz the production department under Mr Schaetzer, who is president the financial and foreign departments under Mr Burns, who is vice president and the sales department under Mr Walsh, who is treasurer. The secretary of the company is Mr Walter Mueller. 
Commonwealth Products Corporation was established some six years ago for the manufacture of flavors, synthetic aromatic chemicals, etc. Its plant at Elizabeth, NJ was rapidly developed and is now well equipped for the manufacture on a large scale of the products in which it has specialized. Its staff includes a group of chemists who have made reputations for themselves, both here and abroad, as specialists in the manufacture of aromatic chemicals and similar products. Its union with Morana Incorporated affords it a large outlet through the extensive and well trained selling staff of that corporation Morana Incorporated for its part acquires a well developed manufacturing plant and organization thereby assuring a steady and controllable supply of synthetic raw materials and flavors." 



Morana, Inc developed into IFF, read  about that here.












Presented in a luxurious truncated pyramidal case in poplar covered in black and rust marbled paper, yellow satin interior, rare molded colorless pressed glass bottle with an oval cylindrical section, its domed oval body with molded decoration on its edges of anthracite patinated floral scrolls, neck with black lacquered notebook, topped with its patinated “cherub” cap sitting on a wreath of flowers, with its 2 labels on one side. Model designed by Julien Viard and made by a Bohemian crystal factory. h: 8 cm



Sunday, August 3, 2014

Sous la Charmille by Parfumerie Brecher c1924


  • Perfume Name: Sous la Charmille
  • Perfume Company: Parfumerie Brecher
  • Creation Date: 1924
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer: Depinoix
  • Measurements: 2 3/4" tall
  • Markings:

Description: squatty bulbous clear glass bottle, tapering to a small neck, fitted with a flattened poppy shaped stopper, the sides molded with leaves and chestnuts, enameled in shades of green & brown w/leaves. Model made by Verreries Dépinoix. 





Promenade Matinale by Arys c1920


  • Perfume Name: Promenade Matinale (Morning Walk)
  • Perfume Company: Arys
  • Creation Date: 1920
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer: Depinoix
  • Measurements: 4 5/8" tall
  • Markings: none

Description: Perfume bottle of clear glass, molded with a water lily motif in relief, frosted and highlighted with patina, the figural stopper molded as a kneeling child. also highlighted in ochre patina . Model designed by Julien Viard. h : 12cm




Also used for the Arys perfume, "Love in the Heart" from 1919.
 




Gotic by Gueldy c1922


  • Perfume Name: Gotic
  • Perfume Company: Gueldy
  • Creation Date: 1922
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer:
  • Measurements: 9cm tall
  • Markings:


Description: Clear and frosted glass perfume bottle, hexagonal lantern shaped, rounded shoulders molded in relief with a stylized floral pattern, with the same decor on the stopper, picked out in patina or thick enamel, with embossed gold or polychrome label mimicking stained glass. Creation attributed to Julien Viard for the Bobin Frères establishments.  



 











Fadette by Richard Hudnut c1924


  • Perfume Name: Fadette
  • Perfume Company: Richard Hudnut
  • Creation Date: 1924
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer:
  • Measurements: 4" tall
  • Markings: Base molded with "Bottle Made in France" and "J. Viard"


Description:  Perfume bottle in clear and frosted glass molded with crisscrossing floral swag motifs, highlighted with sepia patina, figural stopper of a sitting Neo-Classical female also highlighted with sepia patina.




Ambre de Carthage by Isabey c1926


  • Perfume Name: Ambre de Carthage, also used for La Route d'Emeraude
  • Perfume Company: Isabey
  • Creation Date: 1926
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer: unknown
  • Measurements: 5" tall
  • Markings: Molded with "J. VIARD"


Description: Clear and frosted glass molded with frieze of Neo-Classical children holding floral swags, highlighted with gray patina, molded glass stopper,  and housed in a faux Spanish leather presentation box.

Luxurious molded colorless pressed glass bottle of cylindrical section, roll shape, base with grooved pattern, its body with molded belt decoration of high relief depicting four cherubs holding garlands of roses on a plant background, notebook neck, its disk shaped stopper featuring a floral decoration, the whole patinated anthracite gray.
 








Le Prestige by Gueldy c1922


  • Perfume Name: Le Prestige
  • Perfume Company: Gueldy
  • Creation Date: 1922
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer: unknown
  • Measurements: 6 1/8" tall
  • Markings: Base molded "J. Viard"

Description: Clear and frosted glass perfume bottle molded with "Le Prestige" along the top, highlighted with sepia patina, figural stopper of a winged female sitting down with legs crossed, also highlighted with sepia patina.




Gaby by Avenel c1913


  • Perfume Name: Gaby
  • Perfume Company: Avenel
  • Creation Date: 1913
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer:
  • Measurements:  3 3/4" tall
  • Markings: unsigned


Description:  Clear and frosted eight sided bottle molded with detailed pansy motif on six panels, other two panels are free of decoration. The bottle retains its original frosted stopper also molded with the pansy motif. The pansies are highlighted with a dusty pink patina while the leaves are highlighted with grey patina.




Saturday, August 2, 2014

Enigma by Lubin c1921


  • Perfume Name: Enigma
  • Perfume Company: Lubin
  • Creation Date: 1921
  • Bottle Designer: Julien Viard
  • Bottle Manufacturer:
  • Measurements: 3 1/2" tall
  • Markings:

Description: Pyramid shaped crystal perfume bottle molded with an intaglio of a sphinx, the name "Enigma" in a cartouche, piqued out in gold enamel. Original presentation box illustrated with ancient Egyptian scarab and lotus graphics.

Enigma by Lubin was originally launched in 1898, but was repackaged in 1921 with the Egyptian pyramid bottle.